Will have an interesting big update for you all in the next few days. Stay tuned!
Muahahaha!
Will have an interesting big update for you all in the next few days. Stay tuned!
Muahahaha!
..not gonna be there. I’m behind on orders, and I want to get them done and shipped. In addition the last of my PU-elastomer’s gone bad, so I’ll be short on cash from ordering a new batch. It’s the most expensive of all the resins I use, and also the most temperamental in that it’s near impossible to degas.
The way I’m thinking right now is that if people want custom-coloured paw pads, they’ll have to wait until I open a fresh tin of the elastomer to do a big batch of the standard colour rubber items.
Which means I’m going to need to make more moulds. A lot more moulds.
More news as it comes. Suffice to say, February is going to be a busy month for re-tooling and re-planning.
The new heated cabinet is mostly assembled now, and gained half a cubic meter or so of storage space. I’ll have to pick up some aluminium angle to make a shelf support frame and shelf runners, the cut up some of the steel mesh I have sitting around. But until then I’ll be able to find something to sit inside it I’m sure.
All those years of gathering up odds and ends have really been coming right this past few months.
Oh, I think I’ve figured out the new gallery scheme to work with here, though it’ll mean re-tagging everything. Remember kids, save time in the long run; just do it right first time!
You may notice the various image galleries are a bit all over the place for the next few days. I’m messing around with some NextGEN Gallery options and image categories.
I’m also editing the category tags and static pages to make the site a bit easier to navigate.
Still aiming to have everything 100% for newyears.
Had a great time at the party over the weekend, and sold quite a few glowsticks to those more neon partygoers. Shame I couldn’t hang around for long into the dance, but had another event to get off to!
More works
Xmas is rushing up, and I’m pushing to complete changes for newyears. This week I’m all stocked up on melamine chipboard, and rebuilding the heated cabinet. As some of you know the cold weather is my biggest bottleneck right now, with the temperature in the workshop low enough that the resins won’t set properly. Not an issue if I’m in there with the heater on, but a problem for those resins that need to be left overnight or longer.
I already store the raw chemicals in a heated cabinet to prevent them from decay, but it’s not large enough to fit setting materials in as well. In the next couple of days that should change!
Last week, for the second time in several months, I found myself soldering a Wacom tablet. They’ve very nicely made items, but I suppose it’s no surprises the only parts that wear out are the mechanical ones. In these cases, the USB cables.
Perhaps I’m missing something, but the cable Wacom use seems rather cheap. It’s very thin and tightly bound inside. And it always breaks internally right at the point where it enters the tablet casing. There is some strain relief there, but it doesn’t seem to be enough.
The fix is fairly simple: Cut off a few inches of the cable and solder it back together. Or if you can fit a heavier duty cable in, replace the cable entirely. I also hot-glue it in place as much as possible to provide extra strain relief to the cable.
I feel I should let everyone know about a design quirk that almost scuppered the last repair however.
It was a repair as a favour for a friend on a big Intuos 1, GD model. The cable connects conveniently close to where it leave the casing so there was no awkward snaking of wires through it to deal with, unlike the Graphire 3 I fixed last time.
The point of note though is the foil flap stuck to the inside of the upper surface. It’s there as a shield.
After the fix and it was all reassembled, the tablet wouldn’t work. At one point it tripped the safety on my 2.5Amp powered hub!
Wires were re-soldered several times, until we finally took to plugging it in and re-assembling it “live”. The moment the upper surface went in place it stopped responding. It’s about then we realised the foil flap doesn’t just sit on top of the electronics, it wraps around behind it too! The inner surface of the flap is insulated, the outside is not. We were lucky not to fry it.
Slipped it under the board, holding the upper surface open before easing it all into place, and it all worked fine. Phew!
So for anyone else repairing a Wacom tablet; watch where you put your foil flaps.
So I told a lot of folk back at Confuzzled that I’d soon have a webshop up and running. And I still will.
I’ve been taking some time experimenting with differing categories as well as recruiting a few artists to allow me to sell their prints through the shop as well. It’s a mutually beneficial relationship I feel. Or rather, I hope it will be!
Creating the shop has turned into an opportunity for me to strip-down and rebuild a lot of other things. A lot of elements of the way I’ve done things have been thrown together on the fly out of necessity. Stopping for shop-building has left me in a position to remake with lessons learnt. The first of those has been new moulds for the claws. The claws themselves will remain the same, but the new moulds should be easier to use and require less hand finishing on the claws they produce, speeding up my turnaround time.
I’ve got a nice new workbench I’ve been making from a very heavy-duty kitchen tabletop and other salvaged wood. I’ve been adapting it to purpose, so again giving me more workspace and one that’s better to use.
I’ve also been working on a much improved vacuum chamber for better and faster degassing of the resins in greater quantities at once. Having it internally lit with a loading caddy will be extremely useful to me. As will putting in a baffle so things don’t get knocked around when going Up-To-Air again.
I’m also currently researching and doing costings on how viable it is for me to build a 4+ axis milling machine. I’ve mentioned the possible uses of this to a few people, but I’ll keep quiet on that on here for the time being. ![]()
Either way, the prototype’s going to be an interesting one.
In the meantime, I’ll see about giving a few updates on interesting little scrap-builds and other projects.
Today’s been busy will all sorts of minor maintainance jobs, but there’s a couple of points I though you might be interested in.
The main one is that when my grandfather passed on last year, one of the items in his estate was an origional copy of A Treatise on Horology, possibly the definitive text on clock and watch making. I looked it up on Amazon at one point. The cheapest second hand copy was £450.
It is of course no longer in print, and I beleive was published in the tail-end of the 19th century. With that in mind, it’s fair to say it’s copyright has expired. I intend to Gutenburg it.
It’s currently in the possesion of my cousin, and we’ve come to an agreement that I can borrow it from him to scan it into my computer providing I’m careful. It’s about the size of one of those old family bibles, and seems to have the same wafer-thin paper, so I’ve begun stripping down an old lightweight USB scanner. That way I can place the scanner on the book, not the other way around, and reduce the chance of damaging the spine.
Along with other useful public domain texts, I’ll create a small “library” section on the website where they can be accessed as they’re scanned and converted. Scanning A Treatise on Horology will be designated “project-005″, and all library entries will be tagged “library”.
Also, a note to myself. The relevant dimensions of the Hurley typewriter:
Total footprint: 10-13/16″W * 15-13/16″D (274mm * 401mm) (excluding 3/8″ protrusions for feet at sides)
Keyboard space; 10″W * 4.5″D. (254mm * 114mm) (max height base to keytops 1.5″)
Main frame space; 8-5/8″D * 10-1/4″W (219mm * 260mm)
Main frame hole; 7-3/8″D * 9-7/8″W (187mm * 251mm) (1/2″ Radius corners)
Frame stand-offs; 5″ (126mm) (not counting top plate protrusions)
Frame base thickness; 3/8″ (9mm)
Clear base void; 9-1/2″D * 10-1/8″W * 1-3/4″H (241mm * 257mm * 45mm) (exclude 5mm protrusions around feet)
Typeset arch intrudes into main space by 3-3/4″H * 4-3/4″D from top dead centre to middle of arch. Effective as CPU fan vent?
Will need stripping and new Japan-black.
I’ve also been pointed to a mini keyboard that would fit the space, thanks davegodfrey! It’s a membrane board so wouldn’t make a good “clicky” noise, but it’s a strong contender as it has a function-key that gives a full range of keyboard buttons.
Last week I took collection of a pair of broken typewriters via Ebay. Getting them back to the workshop on public transport was a bit of an adventure, with each weighing over 15Kg. That and I’ve caused a security alert on the London Underground before now for taking a folding bicycle with me. Goodness knows what they’d do if they found me carrying two bags full of heavy mechanical things! But if they will insist on not having signs up and opening the luggage barriers for them, then what do they expect? But that’s a rant for another time.
The typewriter wasn’t much of a choice. Unidentified, largely undescribed, but fairly cheap and fairly close by. Postage on these sort of things is a killer, so it was the best compromise between price and collection in person.
If I hadn’t collected in in person though, I’d never have gotten to see the sellers classically tumbledown antique “music” shop. He sells gramophones, all manner of valve radio sets, vintage records. If you’re ever near Hendon Central, I’d recommend a peek in the window. Turn right out of the station, it’s about 10 shops up on your left, past the bus-stop.
Back to topic. The typewriter I’d won was a very sorry looking “Hurley”. It not only looked like something that could have written the Necronomicon, it looks like Elder Gods had been using it. Every bit of the mechanism was coated in staggering amounts of grease and fluff. If it had been a sandwich toaster, I’d say it’d been on that top shelf above the cooker for a good couple of decades.
So after bagging it up in the reliable old wheelie luggage (which never gets a second glance on public transport, yet can carry many times more than a students backpack or a folding bicycle. Where’s the logic in that?), I handed the money over. Then the proprietor noted he had another one he was going to put up on ebay shortly, and asked if I’d be interested in that as well.
Following the Contact reasoning of “Why have one, when you can have two for twice the price?”, I agreed and got myself a slightly better condition Underwood as well.
It’s a good thing too as it turned out.
As with many a steampunk, I’m after the keys. There’s quite a shortage of them it seems, particularly in the UK. I’ve seen batches from craft-suppliers in the USA going for absolutely silly money. And the Hurley has keys that are some sort of single brass pressing formed around the steel key lever itself! Even if they were cut off, there’s no way to change the markings without utterly destroying them.
Probably because it’s from the USA, the Underwood’s keys are as I hoped the Hurleys would have been. Metal cups, some padding and chromed brass pressings. Keys that can be modified.
But there’s not enough of them just yet for anything, so they’ve been set to one side. Apart from them though, the typewriters have a lot of useful bevel gears, adjustable return springs, ratchets, escapements and power regulators (an interesting item on the Hurley; a sealed pot containing a rotor and 1/16th lead balls).
Some folk know I hate the idea of steampunks breaking up perfectly good clocks and watches only to glue their component parts onto items decoratively. It offends my engineers heart to see the height of hand-engineering ruined in unskilled hands, defiled by things like glue and plastic. Incompatible gears pressed together uselessly in mechanically impossible arrangements, never to move again. Defying their very essence.
I fear I may be rather more the Steam than the Punk.
But neither of these typewriters are apparently anything special. Neither seems to be valuable, functional, or even complete. A few empty tapped holes for items previously removed. Staggeringly unlikely that even if I wished to I would never be able to get them working again. These were scrap through and through.
The Underwood came apart without much issue, except at the final stages. It’s carcass too small and fiddly for any other use, it was ended with an angle grinder to remove a few last pieces of the mechanism. But there’s few other fates when parts are irreversibly pinned in place.
The Hurley though was more of a challenge. The original listing was from above and never gave a sense of the things size. With the guts removed, it would leave a huge cubic space in the middle of it’s strong cast-iron frame. Perfect for modification and re-use!
Most screws shifted in time, but a few forced me to resort to my screw extractor set. If you ever buy a set yourself, HSS every time. You’ll save in the long run.
But what will I do with this? What would fit in the middle of a typewriter? Well for one thing, a mini-ATX motherboard would. Possibly even a smaller full-ATX. It is quite large, and the space is tall enough for expansion cards.
It’s going to require a little more research. The key area is fractionally too small for the smallest keyboard I can find for sale online, even with it’s housings removed. Currently I see my only option here as recreating a matrix from momentary-contact switches and wiring them to a standard keyboards controller. Power isn’t too much of an issue if I were to use the PSU from a Shuttle PC or 1U rack-mount server, as both would fit in the base where I presume a HDD would fit quite easily as well. The PSU would mean cutting an access hole in the cast iron though.
I’m currently thinking a monitor capable of operating in portrait mode would work quite well.
Mouse and optical drive are both outstanding issues, though I’m sure something will come to me in time.
It should mesh together fairly well. The Hurley has ten extra buttons above the keyboard, I think for adjusting the margin spacing on the carriage return. But there are bits missing, so I can’t be sure. However above the buttons is a damaged display panel showing orders of magnitude. This seems an ideal location for system lights, and with a momentary-contact rotary switch, the Red-Black selector dial can be repurposed as power.
Stay tuned, this should be an interesting project. I’ll keep entries in the work-blog relating to it tagged as Project-003.